Two Fathoms Brewing passionate about community

WINONA — When the opportunity arose for Graham Kaczmarek and Brook Merkwan to open their own brewery, the couple jumped at it. After years of working at other breweries and being in the craft beer scene, they knew they needed to gain the community’s trust to make it a successful local staple.

“We tried really hard to become part of the community right from the get go and show our support for them, and in turn, they’ve shown their support for us,” Kaczmarek said.

In late 2023, Kaczmarek and Merkwan purchased Island City Brewing Co. near Winona and began transforming it into Two Fathoms Brewing. Today, the brewery has become a popular place for all to gather, with community events, live music, bingo, trivia, wedding receptions and more being hosted.

“There’s not that many spaces like ours in our town,” Kaczmarek said. “You can bring your kids and your grandma. It’s a great spot to hang out; there’s something for everyone.”

With typically 12 to 14 beers on tap, guests have a variety to choose from. For those who are not big beer fans, other drinks, like wine, liquor, cider and non-alcoholic options, are available.

“Everything is experimental, and there’s not really a flagship beer, so it’s constantly changing,” Merkwan said. “We keep it as fresh as possible, using any kind of local ingredients as we possibly can.”

Merkwan and Kaczmarek first met in 2008 in Alaska, where Merkwan owned and operated a coffee shop while Kaczmarek worked in construction and at a brewery.

“We ended up in Colorado after about 10 years in Alaska,” Merkwan said. “Graham started brewing at Odell Brewing Co., and I was teaching.”

Their love for all things brewery- and beer-related continued to grow. Originally from the Midwest, the couple made the decision to return to be closer to family. Additionally, they wanted to bring the industry and all they had learned back.

They were in Fort Collins, Colorado, during the mecca of the up-and-coming craft beer movement, Kaczmarek said.

“Everything that we experienced, we were like, ‘Man, this would be so cool to bring this back to the Midwest,’” he said.

The couple then moved to Minnesota, buying a 120-year-old farmhouse in the Driftless Area. Merkwan did some teaching, and Kaczmarek worked at Forager Brewery, LaCrosse Distilling Co. and Island City Brewing Co. over time. Eventually, the owners of Island City made the decision to sell, and with Kaczmarek’s connections, he and Merkwan were able to purchase the brewery.

“A brewery was already there, and we came in and definitely changed a lot of things to be more of what we wanted it to look like,” Merkwan said. “We wanted to be the town’s brewery and wanted success to come from the heart of the taproom.”

In the brewhouse, Kaczmarek worked to rearrange the brewing tanks while also changing the entire setup. They purchased 10 new tanks and adjusted the whole process around how beer would be sent to the taproom. The previous brewery used kegs, but the couple’s switched to serving tanks, which dispense the beer directly to the tap.

“The beer is quite literally as fresh as it can be, and, once it’s brewed, it never sees the light of day until it’s to the tap,” Kaczmarek said.

When it comes to sourcing ingredients, the brewery chooses to collaborate with local farmers and businesses, one being very local. Kaczmarek said that their head bartender has an organic farm, and once, a group from the brewery went to pick pears to experiment using them in drinks.

The brewery gets its malt from Malteurop Malting Co.’s Winona malthouse, hops from Prairie Island Campground, watermelon from Featherstone Farm and organic apples from local orchards. In doing so, the couple said it supports other small businesses, reduces transportation impacts and provides creative opportunities.

“We’re all small businesses trying to survive, and the people we support, we really support what they do,” Kaczmarek said. “They’re almost fighting the same fight we’re fighting against big beer — they’re fighting against big farms. We’re all trying to do it the right way, and that’s important.”

While the couple gets most inspiration for beer flavors from the seasons, they also find it by living out in the country and being surrounded by nature. Their 5-year-old son loves to explore the property and help with the garden.

“It just gives us such a creative space to keep a mental focus on what’s important and not to be enthralled in the city grind always,” Kaczmarek said.

In the future, Merkwan said they are hoping to add animals, such as sheep, guinea hens and a donkey, to their acreage. She also mentioned the possibility of growing hops or other produce that would influence or go into brews. But for now, the couple is focused on remaining Winona’s brewery and providing a space for memories.

“We’re wanting to create these special events, memories (and) laughter for people in the brewery and in the taphouse,” Merkwan said.